Pool Pump Problems: What Each Symptom Means and What to Check

A pump that's completely silent usually isn't getting power or isn't being told to run. Check the breaker and the timer or automation schedule first. If the breaker trips again after one reset, leave it off and call.

Jandy's Variable-Speed Pumps manual, H0707400 Rev F, says a certified professional should check the voltage at the motor, and that the voltage must be within 10% of the rating plate. Lucent is the technician who can check voltage on the pump circuit. A variable-speed pump only runs during programmed times, so check the schedule. A fault may show on the controller.

If the pump won't turn off, check the schedule or the automation. See pool automation repair. If the breaker trips, see pool pump repair.

A hum with no spin often means a failed capacitor or a seized motor. Debris jammed in the impeller can also stop the shaft from turning. Turn it off so it doesn't overheat, and call for a diagnosis.

H0707400 Rev F says debris may be stuck between the impeller and the diffuser. This will prevent the drive shaft from spinning. Jandy's manual says a certified professional should check whether the shaft is seized with all power off. Lucent is that technician. With the power off at the breaker, empty the pump basket and check that it isn't broken. Don't spin the shaft yourself or open the motor.

We test the electrical side first, repair what failed, and replace the motor only if needed. See pool pump repair.

A pump that won't prime, or loses prime after a few minutes or overnight, is almost always pulling in air on the suction side. Check the water level, the baskets and the lid first. Don't let it run dry while you look.

H0707400 Rev F and H0420400 Rev H say to keep the water high enough that the skimmer isn't drawing air, to empty the skimmer and pump baskets, and to keep the lid seal clean and free of cracks. Hand-tighten the lid. Don't use tools. Both manuals say no lubricant or sealant on the O-ring, soapy water only. Then check the suction-side union O-rings.

At the default priming speed of 2750 RPM, the pump takes about 15 minutes to prime when it is 10 feet above the water. H0420400 Rev H says about 14–15 minutes. The 6-minute figure applies only if priming speed is set to 3450 RPM. If it still won't prime, the cause can be a cracked lid, a worn O-ring, a suction-side leak, a pump seal leaking air, or a suction line damaged by a freeze. See pool freeze prep in North Texas.

A steady stream of bubbles in the pump basket, or bubbles blowing out of the pool returns, means air is getting into the system. The usual causes are low water, a worn lid seal or a loose suction union.

H0420400 Rev H says if the air is not resolved, lid seal replacement may be necessary, then check the union O-rings. Air in the system can also stop the pump priming and cut circulation.

If the motor runs but little water comes out of the returns, something is blocking flow or the pump is pulling air. Start with dirty baskets, a dirty filter and closed valves. A clogged or worn impeller needs a technician.

H0420400 Rev H says to clean the skimmer, the pump basket and the screens, check and clean the filter, and check the valve positions. Several features running at once, such as waterfalls or spa jets, cut flow to each. See pool filter problems.

If there is no air but pressure is still low, debris in the impeller (H0707400 Rev F) or normal wear on the impeller and diffuser needs a technician. A variable-speed pump set too slow can also look like weak flow. A pump running too slow can trip a salt system's no-flow light. See pool salt system repair.

The heater is on the same equipment pad. See pool heater repair.

A pump that runs, then shuts off, is often protecting itself from overheating or a fault. Make sure nothing is blocking air around the motor and check the controller for a fault. Repeated shut-offs need a diagnosis.

H0707400 Rev F says to keep room around the motor for air to circulate. Jandy's manual says a qualified electrician should check for loose connections and the voltage while the pump runs. The voltage must be within 10% of the motor's rating plate. Outside that range the motor can overheat. Lucent is the technician who can check voltage on the pump circuit.

A debris-jammed impeller can make the pump start but shut off soon after. If you smell burning, turn the pump off at the breaker and call. Don't keep restarting a hot motor.

Variable-speed pumps stop themselves when they detect a problem, and many show a fault on the pump or the controller. Note the message before you reset anything. If the fault comes back, call for a diagnosis.

H0707400 Rev F notes that if the motor has experienced an error, a fault code may appear on the controller, and that a power cycle may be needed. Call a technician.

A high-pitched screech or grinding usually means the motor bearings have failed, which calls for a motor swap. A rattling, gravelly sound often means the pump is starved for water or has debris in the impeller. Loud humming with no spin is covered above.

Water dripping between the motor and the pump body usually means a worn shaft seal. Leaks at the lid, drain plugs or unions usually mean a worn O-ring. If the pool is losing water but the pump is dry, it's a different problem.

H0420400 Rev H says water leaking between the motor and the pump body means the seal has failed and should be replaced. Left alone, water can reach the motor and ruin its bearings. We replace the shaft seal and the O-rings on the pump plates and housing.

If the pool is losing water and the pump is dry, see pool leak detection and repair.

You can safely check power, the schedule, the water level, the baskets, the filter and the lid seal. Anything inside the motor, the wiring, or a pump that keeps tripping the breaker or shutting off needs a technician.

Repair it when a repair will last. Capacitors, shaft seals, O-rings, lids and impellers can usually be replaced on their own. Failed motor bearings mean a motor swap, and a burned-out motor or cracked housing usually means replacement.

When something needs replacing, we usually recommend Jandy. As a Jandy ProEdge builder and dealer and an Authorized Jandy ProEdge Warranty Station, we can give you a 3-year warranty on new Jandy equipment. The choice is always yours, though. If you'd rather stay with your current brand, we'll supply and install that instead.

See pool pump replacement.